A random week in RGN

All too often people ask me, “What does your life look like in Yangon?” What do you do, besides working and sleeping? Is Yangon any fun? To answer that question, and to make sure I will still be able to recall these blissful memories when I am 80 years old and reminiscing my younger years spent abroad, I briefly capture the past week below. It’s extremely random, but no less fun.

Saturday

As I hadn’t quite recovered from the intercontinental flight (and ensuing sleep deprivation) the weekend before, I slept in till most of the morning had passed by on the other side of my bedroom curtains. To make up for this extremely lazy start of my weekend, I decided to put my newest gadget (a go pro) to use, and spent the afternoon cycling through Yangon’s back alleys, capturing moving images of everyday life. In the evening I joined Marleen, Bart, Bente, Henno and a bunch of other friends to a LGBT party, but not before we tried some impressive-looking but odd-tasting cocktails at the Alchemist Rooftop bar next door. The hours spent in bed when the sun was up were well recovered at night, and it was after 3am when my head finally hit the pillow.

Sunday

Any alarm, even when it’s Caribbean Blue from Enya, is unwelcome after a night’s drinking. Nonetheless I forced myself to get up at 10am in order not to be late for Yoga at Bente’s. Joining semi-pros Bente and Christien wasn’t easy without a teacher to correct my every move, yet it nonetheless felt great stretching and bending the hangover out of my body. After yoga Henno joined us for a gorgeous lunch at the Rough Cut, which starts to resemble the Central Perk coffee bar from friends going by how much we are hanging out there. I spent the rest of the afternoon taking a well needed nap, whereas at night we listening to an album of Nina Simone at the Rough Cut– entirely in the dark. A cool experience and a good way to conclude a lovely weekend.

Monday

I don’t mind Mondays, but I must admit they’re not my favourite either. The routine is similar every day; cereals with an overly sweet liquid substance that is locally sold as “yoghurt”, shower, getting dressed and taking a cab to the office. The challenge is not so much agreeing on a price (taxi drivers are honest here and often the first offer is the appropriate MMK 3,000) but rather securing a vehicle with a backseat that doesn’t leave my white shirt full of stains or smears. Taking the taxi to work every day really sounds more glorious than it is. After work I walked to the boxing school; an enjoyable 45min stroll through Yankin’s vibrant markets, colourful neighbourhoods and quiet back alleys. Bart and Robbert, whom I both introduced to Leithwei boxing that day, withstood their first training very well and we rewarded ourselves afterwards with some great BBQ food and a cold beer at WinStar – my ‘local’ in SanChaung.

Tuesday

Those who think that my mind can be put to rest after a demanding day in the office are sorely mistaken, at least some days, as last Tuesday featured my regular Burmese class with Bente, Rayke and Marlin Le. We rotate houses between the three of us, and ‘dinner shifts’ between the four of us, with Rayke having the honour this time to put something tasty on the menu. She was helped out by her friend Marleen visiting, who made us some gorgeous (but very filling!) roti. Dinner was barely over when the always energetic Htoo Htoo burst into the room, and the next two hours I struggled trying to keep up with my way more talented friends. Despite the occasional puzzled look on my face class is always fun and rewarding, and I look forward picking it up again after the coming two month break. We concluded the evening with a small glass of Zambuka, and I must say there are worse ways to wrap up a Tuesday.

Wednesday

For lunch I caught up with Ludo and Madison at the food court in Myanmar Plaza, whereas the evening featured a Dublin-era reunion of former housemates. Paula and her friend happened to be in Yangon for the night so I took them out to my favourite restaurant (Gecko- no coincidence given that it was Whiskey Wednesday) and a few drinks at the lovely balcony of the Envoy after that. The week was halfway over and time is going way too fast, which is an undesirable side-effect of taking such delight in day-to-day life. That might well have been my last thought before falling to sleep that night, as talking to Paula about my life in Yangon made me even more conscious of how much I am enjoying my time here.

Thursday

Class was cancelled last minute Thursday night, so Marleen, Bente and I decided to have dinner together and go to the Rough Cut (where else) to check out the live music that had been announced to take place that night. There was a decent crowd, among which the familiar faces of Bart, Christien, Eline and April, which made for a somewhat sweaty but nonetheless very enjoyable atmosphere in the tiny space that is becoming an increasingly popular bar. Not for the first time this year, this time after talking to Bart about his latest novel, I told myself that I should be writing more, and with that renewed resolution I cycled home to a great night’s sleep.

Friday

That is today. It’s been a busy week at the office, with plenty of exciting and also frustrating things going on, yet I am not dissatisfied with the progress made since coming back from the Netherlands. In some ways this Friday isn’t exactly the standard Friday. Rather than the more casual end-of-the-week garb I’ve been walking around in a suit and tie, due to the various meetings scheduled, and at night I’m alone at home putting my freshest resolutions to practice. Then again, I’ll need an early night’s sleep, as tomorrow I’ll be getting up at seven for a 70km bike ride to Bago. The rest of the weekend will be very chilled out though, as I’ll be spending the remaining time cuddled up on a soft sofa at Hanthar Gardens, the latest Economist on my lap and a cup of tea within reach. Christien and Eline were kind enough to invite me for this weekend of chilling out at one of my favourite getaways from Yangon, and I look forward to some decent quality time out of the city.

Yangon on a Saturday afternoon in July

A hypthetical conversation when entering the UK

“Good morning”

“Good morning”

“What brings you to the UK?”

“Visiting friends”

“Where do these friends live?”

“London”

“May I ask how you know these people?”

“Well… I met them in various circumstances. It’s not the same group you know.”

“Various circumstances eh? Alright, who you meeting first?”

“A girl I met in Stockholm”

“Is she Swedish?”

“No, Greek”

“Greek… When was that first meeting taking place?”

“2009 I believe”

“And what brought you to Stockholm?”

“I was doing a summer university in Finland and Estonia”

“Stockholm is neither in Finland nor Estonia”

“Correct. It is on the way to Finland though”

“And when are you supposed to meet her?”

“Now. So you’re holding up a date”

“We’re not done yet. Who else are you meeting?”

“Tonight I am meeting a Dutch guy”

“How do you know this guy?”

“I know him from when I lived in London”

“Ah, you lived in London?”

“Sort of”

“Sort of?”

“They call it an extended business trip”

“How long was that for?”

“First time 10 weeks and second time 9 weeks”

“Right… so you are meeting two different friends in London?”

“No, four”

“Four? Who are the other two?”

“Tomorrow I am meeting a girl”

“Where is she from?”

“From here”

“So she is British?”

“Yes. Half Indian I believe”

“Right. How do you know her?”

“We met in Vietnam last April”

“Vietnam?”

“Yes, Vietnam”

“And what about this fourth person?”

“We used to be flat mates”

“In London?”

“No, in New Delhi”

“New Delhi??”

“Yes. It’s in India, you know”

“I know where New Delhi is. Is this girl Indian?”

“No, she is half Italian half Arab”

“Right. And when did you last see this person?”

“Ehmm. About 8 months ago I believe”

“In London?”

“No, in Hong Kong”

“Hong Kong?? How did that happen?”

“Coincidentally we both were there for work”

“Right. And where are you from? You sound Irish”

“The Netherlands”

“The Netherlands? How come you sound Irish?”

“I guess because I used to live in Dublin for three years”

“So where are you flying from today?”

“Eindhoven, the Netherlands”

“Do you live in Eindhoven?”

“Absolutely not.”

“Whereabouts in the Netherlands do you live then?”

“I don’t live in the Netherlands”

“Where the hell is it that you live??”

“Yangon, Myanmar”

“…..”

“Walk on”

Suppose

Let me put this hypothetical question to you. Suppose you live in Myanmar, which is quite a conjectural statement to start with. On a regular Tuesday morning, your cleaning lady asks you for a small loan, to pay the hospital bills for her child. She offers to repay you in ten instalments, by deducting a third of her wages every week. You readily agree (is there really another option?), fish out the money from your wallet, and leave for work.

The question that keeps you occupied on the way to work is whether to gift the money to your cleaning lady or to accept the instalments. It is an amount you can easily miss, and ideally you would gift her the money as it’s doing so much good to her compared to you spending it on whatever. Yet you are worried about creating the wrong incentives. If the money was gifted, your cleaning lady might ask for more in the future, perhaps without having an urgent cause. She might make up reasons, or invent stories.

The world is incredibly unequal and incredibly unfair. Does it matter that your cleaning lady might make up stories to get money off you when she is so much poorer? In a way it does. By virtue of allowing her into your apartment, and giving her a key, you need to fully trust her. Without that trust, you would have to cancel the contract. Moreover, Myanmar is full of people poorer than your cleaning lady. If you gave her free money, why wouldn’t you hand it out in the street to anyone who might need it?

Still, the world is incredibly unequal and incredibly unfair. This inequality is a by-product of growth in our capitalist system; some sort of an externality of having reached our current level of welfare. People work hard, innovate, and take risks when they know their efforts will pay a reward. Communism failed for a reason. Many people who can afford a cleaning lady are adding more to society than they are receiving from it, thanks to a progressive tax system and the impact they have through their job. Yet, this textbook example doesn’t hold true at all times, partially because of the twin vices of nepotism and corruption that are still all too prevalent. There is only so much you can justify by referring to economic theory.

All reasoning aside, the world is incredibly unequal and incredibly unfair. In this highly hypothetical situation, what would you do? What should you do?

Farmers and garments

Dear all,

a while ago Marleen and I got the idea to 'respond' to one another's blog posts by writing a corresponding story. Like many nice ideas, it remained just a nice idea, until I found myself writing a lengthy response to one of Marleen's Facebook posts this morning. Hopefully this is the beginning of a string of stories in which we compare our experiences and visions of living and working in the world's youngest democracy. Please find below the link to Marleen's blog post and my subsequent response. Feel free to contribute to the discussion by leaving a comment in the designated space below the article. Happy reading!

https://rsr.akvo.org/en/project/3717/update/17355/

Well let’s first establish that I don’t disagree with the spirit of your article (I mean how could you disagree with a better world for everyone) but rather with the reasoning behind it. Let’s first start with the rural-urban migration that you point out for its negative impact on food security because of the scarcity of labour it implies in the countryside. In my view and experience, the exact opposite holds. Smallholder farmer might seem romantic or idyllic from an outsider’s perspective, but those people eking out a living farming three acres of paddy land are dirt poor, and continuing to do so won’t make them any better off in the near nor the distant future. Myanmar was once the rice basket of SEA, and for them to reclaim this position we need better farming practices, the consolidation of small farm plots, and mechanisation. W.r.t. the latter, in our observations of the tractor market, we have seen evidence of farmers investing in machinery because the price of casual labour has gone up – precisely because of the reasons you point out. In my view this is a good thing. Any market force that stimulates a farmer to ditch the wooden plough and substitute it with a much more powerful tractor ought to be celebrated. Of course, when I am travelling through rural Myanmar, I find the sight of two big draft animals pulling a plough in a paddy field much more attractive that a noisy, smelly tractor. But isn’t that very selfish? Those farmers who have invested in machinery increase their labour productivity manifold, i.e. they produce more food in less time. They are much better off than when they were still trailing their oxen. Let me be even bolder in my statements; in addition to casual labour migrating to the cities, we need the smaller farmers to be bought out by the larger, more efficient ones. This will allow those farmers to grow larger, invest more in their farms, and increase their labour productivity and thus food production. A country cannot prosper as long as the majority of its labour force is locked up in smallholder farming. In the Netherlands only a small fraction of our GDP is derived from agriculture, yet we have plenty to eat. Myanmar is in parts an extremely fertile country, and it has the potential not only to feed itself but also supply its two giant neighbours, neither of which produce enough food to feed their own population. Myanmar’s current account deficit was a yawning 8.9% of its GDP in 2015, and increased agricultural productivity (and the garment industry, but I’ll get to that) can help to bridge that gap.

Now that we have established that rural-urban migration is stimulating productivity in the countryside rather than harming it, we get to your second point about the garment industry. While I fully agree with your critique of the consumerism in parts of the rich world, I think that this is a problem that lies with consumer attitudes and regulation in the West, not with producer countries in Myanmar or Bangladesh. Buying clothes for next to nothing only to dispose of them after wearing them once or twice is ghastly, and showcases much of what is wrong with today’s consumer mentality in the rich world. Yet prohibiting Myanmar people to work in the garment industry is not the solution to this problem. In my view, as long as the garment industry (or any industry for that matter), provides people who used to live in the countryside with a better income than what they had before, we shouldn’t discourage the invisible hand of the free market. As Myanmar develops, invests in schooling and infrastructure, and grows richer, so will the type of work improve that the majority of its working age population are engaged in. Looking at our own experiences in Western Europe, this transitory phase seems to be a regrettable but unavoidable phase of industrialisation. After all, the state of many a working class neighbourhood in late 19th century London wasn’t that glamorous either. In my view, if well-directed and regulated, FDI can speed up this development process, while stalling it will delay such progress.

Myanmar currently imports much more than it exports, which is unsustainable and harmful. It needs to make use of its competitive advantage to produce things at a price and quality that nobody else can beat, which would allow them to export it. Currently, looking at its fertile land and cheap labour, agricultural products and cheap garments fit the bill. Let’s hope the former will further develop so that the country may become an agri export powerhouse, while the latter will transition towards something more skilful.

So, hopefully, in a decade’s time, people will answer to your questions that they are on their way to a value-added job, which came about on the back of FDI, while answering that, thanks to a thriving agricultural sector, not only they have eaten, but also their Indian and Chinese neighbours have. 

Paradise in 40 degrees Celsius

‘Sorry for the late notice, but we’re closed down by the local government this weekend. You’ll get a free beer if you book another time!’ Late notice indeed, and at our request, not even out of their own initiative. It seems that the ostensible paradise of Sin Htauk is falling victim to its own success, both in their inability to manage bookings and supposedly to apply for the right type of licence. But with expensive domestic flights already booked to regional hub of Dawei, we had no choice but to look for alternative lodging. According to the guy from Sin Htauk all nearby accommodation had been fully booked, yet when I contacted the ‘Coconut Resort’ –inspired by a sly reference in the LP- they were more than happy to host us. And so we went anyway Saturday morning, flying down south to the narrow peninsula that Myanmar shares with Thailand.

Lovely though it was, the term ‘resort’ does justice neither to real resorts nor the homely, hostel-like vibe that Coconut displays. While the absence of AC in the rooms, power for only a few hours a day, and (adopted?) stray dogs might make the place sound a bit basic, which it was, the great setting and home-cooked food more than compensated for that. The common room featured low, Japanese style tables, encouraging guests to adopt Roman dining positions, shelves full of second-hand books, and maps of the area on the wall. Guests slept either in bungalows or in one of the small tents that could be found amid the towering coconut trees. But there wasn’t really much to do, and I saw the same sleepy, familiar faces lounging on the mats every day. Hence, during the only full day we had, we took to discovering the peninsula.

It wasn’t easy to get to, paradise. I guess if it was, it would have been crawling with people, and I wouldn’t call it paradise anymore. Now we were the only ones. The only ones who i) knew about it, ii) didn’t live in the nearby fishing village and iii) were crazy enough to lounge at a beach without shade during the hottest part of the day. Temperatures must have been in the high thirties, if not higher, and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. For about two hours we had been on the move (and in the sun), riding our motorbike along the main road snaking down the peninsula, past villages and fallow fields. The area has a distinctively laidback, though relatively prosperous vibe. It was remarkably green given the time of the year, the roads were of decent quality and undergoing upgrading as we speak, and most houses boasted two stories and colourful façades. The whole scene breathed tropical, from small scale rubber plantations to mountains with lush vegetation, and from the burning sun to the gorgeous beaches. Tourism is still vert nascent, and the large crowds on the beach near Coconut were comprised almost entirely of locals. And the beaches that are harder to get to... well, no crowds there.

It was not long after we had nourished a tasty lunch of steamed rice with chicken that Jasmine (who was doing the navigation) indicated that we had to take a right turn. ‘Here?’ I eyed the dirt road disappearing into a forest, forking away from the main road that continued down south. ‘Yeah, that’s what it says…’ Google maps left no room for ambiguity, and so I rode our bike up the path. Our hostess had very kindly explained the condition of the road that we were evidently on, stating it was ‘good quality yes very good but up and down and up and down and going in sharp turns like snake but oh yes very good quality’, which proves once again how opinions might differ even when using the same adjectives. Okay, I must admit it wasn’t that bad. The gravel soon gave way to sand, with intermittent rocks and potholes making the descent a little tricky, but overall it was very doable. And it ought to be said that I was likely the worst driver in the area, as the few villagers that overtook us did so at twice the speed.

After this entertaining bike ride, all that separated us from the beach was a stretch of mangrove forest, with patches of sand, vegetations and ankle-deep water to wade through. And then, finally, after crossing the last waist-deep (a little higher for Jasmine) liquid hurdle, I tossed my rucksack aside and ran up the beach, soaking up the gorgeous scenery all around. To the left were distant hills covered in verdant, lush green jungle, whereas on the right one could make out a number of small fishing boats, bobbing on the waves. And in front of us, an azure-blue sea, stretching as far as the eye could see. The sand was made of the tiniest particles and was bleach white, the water warm. We swam, gorged on the views, the peace, the absence of any other human beings, and the serenity of the place. Yet it was midday, the sun scorching hot, and no shade to be found, so we couldn’t stay there the entire afternoon, however much we wanted to. So after an hour or so in paradise, we waded our way back to the bike, snaked through the mountain pass, up and down, onto the main road, through the now familiar-looking villages, and back to Coconut.

And the name of the beach? I think I’ll keep that to myself ;)

From tribal villages to ancient temples

´No way, you’re moving where??’

‘Myanmar. For two years. Most probably, I haven’t seen any contract yet but it looks likely.’

‘Wow. If you’re really going I’ll be the first to visit you.’

That was Utrecht, March 2016. After 9 weeks in London I had a week-long training at HQ before heading back to Ireland; an opportunity I made the most of by visiting my friends in the area. As Karine and I were catching up over a drink, I told her about the opportunity of a lifetime that was changing all existing plans. As we all know, that opportunity became reality as I moved from Dublin via the Netherlands to Myanmar, a mere two months after the above conversation took place. And Karine’s promise turned out not to be an empty one, as we’ve just completed a wonderful trip covering Myanmar’s main attractions. It’s been a journey that allowed me to see a different side of Myanmar, as the tourist magnets of Bagan and Inle Lake have a completely different vibe than the remote villages that I usually visit for work purposes. Yet I also got to see more of the fertile Shan countryside during our three day hike, and got a glimpse of what life must be like for people who spend their life in a hut above the water at Inle Lake. All in all it’s been a very diverse, rewarding and most welcome (first) break from work since starting 5 months ago. This blog post is to cherish those happy memories.

Pick nine people, completely at random, and put them together on a three day, 65 km hike. Have them share a room for the night where they sleep next to one another on mats on the floor, and serve them the same food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Put them through modestly challenging exercise. Let them use squat toilets. Provide them with a bucket and cold water for a shower. And observe. You get to know complete strangers rather well in a short time span when traveling with them. Moreover, you get to know good friends even better. When faced with discomfort, with situations that require flexibility, with making do with the means available, people show their true self. The naked personality emerges from underneath pretence and flashy cover-up smiles. To me, people who are cheerful despite (or even because of!) the required adaptations on such a hike, are generally people I tend to get along with. Lucky me. Our group of nine was a nigh perfect composition to walk from Kalaw to Inle Lake.

It was just after 5 am on Saturday morning when Karine and I stumbled out of our night bus, having just been put through the ordeal of traveling from Yangon to Kalaw. My previous experiences with night buses in Myanmar had been remarkably positive, compared with their uncomfortable and dangerous peers in the likes of India (hard chairs, poor roads, drunk bus drivers) and Latin America (dangerous cliff sides, bandit holdups, and suicidal drivers). Versus the latter benchmarks our trip was still a very innocent one, yet not to the level of comfort I had secretly grown accustomed to. Driving from Yangon to Mandalay and back had proven a very pleasant experience just a few weeks ago, with the key being not only the comfortable bus but also the straight road linking Myanmar’s two main cities. Kalaw, tucked away in the Shan mountains, does not quite have straight roads leading to it. In fact, I doubt whether there’s any stretch of road lasting more than 100 meters without a curve of sorts around the place. Add poor suspension and two seats in the very back and you have the recipe for a poor night’s sleep, as at times both our bodies entirely left the seating when a particularly big bump in the road brutally interrupted my doze and had me land back into my seat wide awake. Little surprise that the thin mat on the wooden floor that night felt like the softest bed, and I slept like a baby.

Skipping a night’s sleep helps to make one sleep well on the floor of a bamboo hut. What also helps is hiking 25 km through the mountains, with a dysfunctional Achilles tendon that makes the right leg do twice the work. My sole reliance whenever backpacking (the LP) as well as friends’ opinions (Laurien) had been fabulously wrong when downplaying the rewards of the hike, as both suggested that it wasn’t that much spectacular. Well, it indeed doesn’t compare to trekking in the Himalayas, yet it is still very much worth your while. I guess we’ve been lucky with our guide, Mary, in multiple ways. Apart from getting us superb food and being pleasant company, she also picked a route that I suspect is more beautiful (and longer!) than the ‘standard’ one. We walked through mountains and paddy fields, through tribal villages and forest. The scenery was nothing short of spectacular at times, and despite my annoying injury I had the time of my life. Walking through such a diverse landscape, witnessing local people do their day to day work, gazing at water buffalos chilling out in the fields or taking a bath, soaking up the sun in the land of eternal summer… it all made for a wonderful combination and I enjoyed every step of it.

Except for the bees. Never run through a swarm of angrily buzzing bees, even (or especially!) when Matthew goes first. Next time, let the bees have him, and don’t make a fool of yourself running and screaming while waving frantically to get rid of the little bastards.

The third and final component to the recipe of sleeping soundly on the floor is a few bottles of lukewarm Myanmar (or 8% Dagon) beer, along with a smoke and a sip of whiskey. The first night we got to take part in the villagers’ celebration of a full moon day, amid live music and dancing. After another day of trekking the second night featured less dancing but was all the more hilarious. Rachel introduced us to Celeste, Matthew gave us a hint of his profession and had me cry from laughing, and we discussed EPL players in quite some detail. Too bad no quotes survive. Or well… maybe for the better.

‘Oh you bastard! You’re staying here? I’m sleeping in a 16 bed male dorm tonight!’ Our little boat had just turned a corner and the fairy-talelike image of Sanctum Resort emerged. Amid a week of night busses, mats on the floor, and budget hotels, Karine and I had decided that our stay at Inle Lake was worth a splurge and Sanctum lived up to its near-perfect online references. From the deck chairs at the swimming pool you could see the sun set on the mountains behind the lake, while the resort’s quarters included cosy library-like rooms and classy bars to spend time after dark. It was a welcome reward amid luxury I am not accustomed to, so I enjoyed it all the more. Bar some ancient Italians the hotel was rather quiet, which meant I had the pool for myself every morning at 7 am to start yet another awesome day. Breakfast was lovely and the staff even lovelier, and I hope I’ll get to return to this paradise at least once more during my stint in Myanmar.

Okay, enough resort kudos. Inle Lake. Well, Inle Lake is a pretty fascinating place. It features villages built on poles, floating markets that regularly change location, locals who have built their livelihoods around fishing and cultivating crops on man-made islands, and an entire infrastructure designed around water-going vessels. Like in the backwaters of Kerala, the main transport is by boat. People to go temple by boat, children go to school by boat… it is a mesmerising society that is unfortunately at risk of being overly exposed to tourism.

I guess that by some standards tourism at Inle Lake is still rather confined. Yet with Myanmar opening up, and more and more people deciding to come visit here, Inle Lake being the country’s main attraction appears at risk of becoming a victim of its own beauty. I haven’t done any research on the matter, but it is not hard to imagine what the consequences can be of ever more people flocking to the lake and disturbing local life and customs with their tourist money. It is a somewhat hypocritical analysis I am portraying here, as I am myself very much one of those foreigners doing exactly the things that I fear will negatively impact the existing ecosystem. Being toured around by our very kind and able driver, I frown upon flocks of fat Americans being shepherded from souvenir shop to souvenir shop. Observing particularly callous characters showing no or too little respect for locals, I detest their inability or unwillingness to make an effort and respect the Myanmar population who are still so very much unspoilt by mass tourism. The more uncouth and ignorant foreigners will descend upon the lake and its surroundings, the more the genuinely helpful and kind character of the people here will be eroded. Locals will become attractions, tourists will become sources of income. I can imagine that the lake to date has been a closed ecosystem of sorts, with its inhabitants living off the fish and grown vegetables and the lake maintaining a sort of balance (don’t say The Circle of Life lads, this is a serious topic now for a change). Yet all these tourists bring with them more waste and may use up more of the ecosystem’s capacity than it can handle. All those temporary visitors eating, drinking, going to the toilet, going on boat rides; what will this do to the likes of food availability, waste water management, and the negative externalities of fuel consumption? The hypocrisy, as you have no doubt already recognised, lies in the fact that I am very much one of those people I am frowning upon in all this tourist-bashing. And to be honest, some of the people on the lake will very much welcome the increased economic activity which leaves them better off in terms of income and (some) standards of welfare. For me to avoid the place altogether wouldn’t be an option – rather I make sure I am very much aware of the huge privilege of visiting this magical place, and treat locals with the same courtesy that they lavish on me. Moreover, I hope that the government takes the messages on display around the lake (‘responsible tourism development’ etc.) seriously.

Leaving Inle Lake also meant saying our goodbyes to the last people of our trekking crowd, which we did in style over a gorgeous Indian ‘palak paneer’. Another night bus later we arrived in Mandalay, where we swapped our newly acquired resort standards back to a twin room in a midrange hotel. Renting the same bike at the same place (thanks so much Zar Ni for giving the address!) as a few weeks ago, our day in Mandalay featured riding our scooters to the famous teak-wooden bridge, climbing Mandalay Hill, and having gorgeous Shan noodles for breakfast (too spicy for some of us).

From Mandalay we took a boat to Bagan, where we woke up the next day (or night, technically) at 4:30 am to watch the sunrise from the top of a temple. Arriving there while it was still dark we were temporarily under the illusion that we might have the place to ourselves, yet this wishful thinking was quickly disturbed by a caravan of cars, vans and motor cycles dropping off a seemingly infinite stream of tourists. Hence, 10 minutes into our peace and quiet we were surrounded by loudly squeaking Chinese, boisterous Argentines, and overly excited Americans. Imagine that the high season hasn’t even started, and Bagan is already flooded with tourists. Yes, I know, hypocrisy abound. After the sunrise, which was quite nice to watch despite being in the middle of a camera-snapping crowd, I decided to leave the tourists to the temples and the temples to the tourists and finally started reading the book I had been carrying around for a week. A relaxing end to a very rewarding week, during which I met great people and got to show Karine some of Myanmar’s most famous treasures. A great thank you for all of you who’ve made this trip so enjoyable and a particular one to Karine to being the first one to make the journey from the Netherlands to visit me here. 

And of course, as always, a few quotes to finish the story with:

Me: ‘Could you refill this water bottle for me please’

Staff at the resort: ‘Let me get you a new bottle’ (obviously thinking, what a backpacker)

A few of Karine’s observations during the week:

‘Het is hier net Burgers Zoo (during the 3 day hike)

‘Giethoorn is er niets bij (Inle Lake)

‘Please meet Tony and Celeste’

‘Everyone in this village waves back to me except that kid. Well you know, that kid can fuck off.’

‘Het is een hele groep zeg’

‘Ja god’

‘Een groep Italiaanse bejaarden’

‘Mja Italianen trek ik meestal nog wel’

‘Ja ik ook wel’

(Watching the sunrise at the temple, already quite bright)

‘Als je nu pas komt aankakken dan heb je het echt niet begrepen’

‘Nee inderdaad’

‘He, dat is Laurien!’